We currently live in what can be most adequately described as a post-colonial property with “dependência” and a garage at the rear.  Locally, the house is known as “Casa de Padres”, not because we are already famous due to any perceived religious connections, but rather because the local Catholic Padres used to call it home.  Since their benevolent occupation it has seen to our knowledge some patronage by a local business, but apart from that, it’s remained a silent and somewhat crumbling edifice to the previous Portuguese era.  It sits in an area of development that was previously a “no go area” for the indigenous Koti population.  It now nestles between a “Save the Children” office which seems disconcertingly dormant and the home of the local bank manager. The latter property exudes a wide range of noises, including screeching cats, yelping dogs, extremely anxious chickens on their way to supper and an air-conditioning unit that has an ability to establish harmonic vibrations throughout our house.  The unit must be pretty powerful, because our lights dim whenever it kicks into action. The bank manager’s wife drives an extremely battered Peugeot with care and attention derived from her automotive capabilities.  Parking anything near their house could be considered a risk as when reversing out she has been known to make minor “modifications” to her vehicle.

Cabila and Chali on the veranda working on their English

Our street, called “Avenida da Praia”, is the main thoroughfare to the most beautiful beach in Angoche, some 7km away.  On most days the cry of “com licence” can be heard at our gate and most of the time this call has some clear relationship with “dinheiro” – the Portuguese word for money!  So this can mean 3 hopeful fishermen normally clothed in rags proudly holding up the catch of the day.  On offer has been squid, prawns, lobster, sardines and our favourite “sera”, which is a very tasty, long white fish.  Expertly cooked by our friend Assane in a light flour batter flavoured with lemons from our garden and accompanied by fresh coconut rice – Rick Stein eat your heart out!  We have a small spring scale to weigh the merchandise and Assane negotiates a good price at the gate.  On other occasions we hear a more piercing chorus from a diminutive wizened blind man, who is gently led around town by some small boys.  He clutches the end of his bamboo stick and the lads guide him around the pedestrian obstacle course of the Angoche “pavements”.  Drinks of water for the tag team and a smattering of metecais send them away until next time.

Assane with the successful purchase of a lobster (still kicking!)

Other visitors asking for money, usually for medicine or food, include the “Thamole Twins”, who are about 40 years old and between them have 21 (yes twenty-one) children and 3 good eyes.  A young widow called Fatima carrying Manuel (a baby boy with the biggest eyes in Angoche and a heart–melting smile) comes all too regularly, but her persistence reaps some rewards.  Other gate-crashers include Silva arriving for an English lesson with an infectious laugh that responds well to teasing:  normally with a shake of the head and the words “Não Pai Juliano!”

The tide’s out

Wa maala

“Wa maala” is the Koti equivalent of “com licença” (with your permission) and is normally uttered by the Tarikhi ya Haakhi leaders when they arrive for a chat.  Rolling out the carpet takes on a new meaning in this context.  The Moz equivalent is a mat woven from palm leaves which is laid out on our front “veranda”.  Conversations in broken Portuguese are accompanied by glasses of cool water, bemused expressions generated by our linguistic unskills and laughter.  These are normally regarding the idiosyncrasies of some local person who will be euphemistically described as “complicado”.  The dictionary has become well thumbed and brings relief to our vacant expressions along with a smile of acknowledgement and encouragement from our friends.  Kindness is a precious commodity that can be in short supply when we feel encumbered by yet another request, but something I’m trying to learn is how to be less brusque and more benevolent.  Have we been at times “taken for a ride”?  Most certainly yes, but on the other hand how much does that matter?  Often our gifts don’t seem to receive a ready appreciation; the poverty spirit can engender the expectation that the gift is the entitlement of a needy person and does not deserve open gratitude.  But anyway, I am reminded in the words of one good friend “it’s a gift, not a purchase”.

So being who we are, sacrificing some of our western ideals – and we hope succumbing to a fresh God-given graciousness  – certainly stretches us and maybe changes us a little for the better?

Silva in school uniform

Some journeys are long, dusty, hot and bone shaking. A legitimate candidate for the 2009 Oscar in this category happily goes to the journey from Nampula to Angoche. Various encounters along the road will include:

• Escapee goats, furtively running across the road trailing a long piece of rope which had been tied up to something (I think the prisoner chewed through the rope that was holding it captive)
• Skinny cows lurching towards the car looking for an as yet unfound piece of better green grass, pursued by a small boy throwing sticks to deviate their course back to the safe and narrow
• Guinea fowl who like London buses seem to travel in pairs and scuttle along with admirable speed yet are unable to reach take-off velocity
• Numerous people at the many points where rivers cross under the road through small culverts. They are washing either clothes which are then spread out on bushes and rocks to dry, or rinsing themselves with unashamed nudity (it’s wrong to stare at such a person – but it’s amusing to note that us humans come in a very wide variety of shapes, some of which defy description)
• Rickety bicycles always without brakes but always with wild legs and eyes as they swerve to avoid our Landrover which appears in a large plume of dust blaring a warning horn at errant cyclists
• 125cc motorcycles which travel at maximum speed and follow a trajectory not based upon any normal road sense, making overtaking somewhat of an art form
• All sorts of stuff for sale which are proffered as close to passing vehicles as is humanly possible.  This includes enormous bags of charcoal, floor mats made from palm leaves, a limited assortment of fruit and vegetables stacked in little pyramids and of course the occasional very large prawn/ shrimp or lobster (you make up your mind what they are as I’m not entirely sure) suspended by the tail. They start off a rather unappetising grey colour but when cooked display a flamboyant pink hue.
• Last but not least – the chapas! Typically an old Japanese lorry with a broken windscreen, failing suspension and a crowd of passengers that combine images of the game Twister, a strange centipede with legs poking out everywhere and an extremely disorganised lost luggage store. The driver grimly holds onto the steering wheel, obviously not entirely convinced if his input is making any difference to the direction of travel. These vehicles lurch at us at breakneck speed and necessitate some agility on our part to ensure we are not on a direct collision course.

And now some photos:

"We’d like to be able to read!"

“Prayers going up – answers coming down”

Ian Not Nil and Landrover

Inguri to Jovane
Inguri forms maybe the largest area of “development” in Angoche. Its spine is a wide dirt road with a string of street lights and power poles down the middle. As you walk into Inguri you pass a somewhat tired-looking mosque and then small concrete houses built by the Portuguese. Small businesses inhabit the verandas where you can find tailors, shopkeepers, hairdressers and even a football table shaded by a small tarpaulin. On parallel streets the housing is less robust and small covered markets are cramped between the simple dwellings. During the day many of the men sleep and then go fishing during the night. Timber poles are fashioned from the mango groves which form many of the islands and a multitude of boats ply a trade carrying fishermen, timber, provisions for the islands and of course passengers.

Inguri street

Inguri mosque

We walk for about half an hour through the early morning sunshine and then arrive at Ussein’s house. The cyclone that hit this area last year destroyed many houses and places within 100 meters of the shore were inundated with sea water. All that remains of Ussein’s home are the remnants of stone and mortar which had originally been applied to a lattice of timber poles. The remains project out of the ground like broken teeth. So now he lives with his family in a small shack that many of us would consider to be a very fragile garden shed. Ussein is one of the leaders in Inguri and is taking us today to Jovane which is an island community located 45 minutes across the water.

On this trip we are accompanied by friends and family, as our daughter Hannah is visiting on her way through to Pemba. She’ll be about 6 hours drive north of us for the next 3 months, helping care for more than 300 street children and attending a school run by Iris Ministries.

Did anyone bring a paddle?
So a ten minute walk takes us down to what we call “Pooh Beach” and we pick our way through to a small boat that awaits our custom. The men roll up their trousers and the ladies raise their skirts to waddle out and embark in as dignified a manner as possible. We wait awhile and then set off, but this boat has a propulsion problem as the power plant comprises one man and a paddle. A few minutes out and caution overcomes valour. We return to the beach to be joined by another boatman carrying two more paddles and a stick. The stick and some rope form a rowlock which provides some leverage for an oar arrangement. Our late arriving boatman set himself at the bow, facing towards the stern placing his feet on a bench seat. He rows for the full 45 minutes and hardly breaks into a sweat. So we arrive on the island safe and sound to follow a sandy path under some coconut palms and past a small “passengers waiting shack”. The path emerges from some long grass and then we begin the 3 km walk to the village. We traverse some wide open and flat areas which seem to have been periodically covered by tidal water. At times we meander through mango groves about 0.5m high or so, paddling in places through curiously cool water. By now it’s nearly 9.00am but the sky is clear and the sun is hot so progress is gentle.

Some of the guys on Jovane

Is this like your church?
We arrive at a small cluster of houses and greet the villagers with our broken Koti language skills. This evokes laughter and great pleasure from our hosts. Some mats made from coconut palms have been laid out under the shade of a large cashew tree and about 35 adults quietly assemble under the direction of Ussein. We enjoy worshiping together and entertainment is provided by a stray dog. He wanders in through our midst, his muzzle decorated with a sprinkling of green “seeds”. He has obviously been poking his nose into where it should not have been. He plonks himself down at the edge of the crowd and one of our number beats him with a stick made from a coconut palm leaf to move him along. Much to everyone’s amusement the dog wins. He simply lies there and whelps when he’s struck, looking disdainfully at his assailant. The meeting proceeds and Annie presents Hannah to our new friends using her “proficient” Portuguese which is then translated into Koti. I follow with a short talk based upon Luke 6 using my “irregular” Portuguese which is manfully transposed into Koti. I speak about not condemning or judging one another, but rather showing love. The passage moves on to talk about planks and specks and then the blind leading the blind. At this juncture two Virgin Atlantic Premier Economy eye patches are employed to demonstrate how ridiculous it is to see a blind person leading around a blind person! More laughter. The point is made regarding the choices we make in terms of who we follow. We then ask the assembled group to pray for us and kneel down on the mats to be encircled by a throng of fervent prayers! Then our team pray for those who are sick, including back pain, a cough, a fever and stomach problems. It’s odd but I am slightly surprised that they have the same sort of ailments as us – what was I expecting – I suppose malaria or worse. Upon reflection maybe this is what some of them have? The team then prays for everyone and our meeting closes with bread and juice (communion) and an offering, polished off with prayer for Mozambique and other nations.

Dog at the end of the meeting

Well, well….
Shortly afterwards lunch appears in enamel bowls on an aluminium tray. This comprises shima and gamarau (a warm dough like substance made from a ground root vegetable and prawns). About 8 of us eat watched by 30 others, a slightly uncomfortable experience. During the time of prayer we were asked to intercede for rain and water. Conversation over lunch reveals water supply as a major problem. The only well on the island at best provides 20 litres per day and there are hundreds of inhabitants. The well needs to be deeper, but the ground is too hard to dig any deeper with the tools they have available. So water has to be collected from the mainland and carried back to the villages.

OK you have guessed it……….we want to help so have started to make enquiries how the well could be improved and how much it would cost…….watch this space.

We trudge back across the sand, accompanied part of the way by our new friends singing and laughing and eventually arrive home, tired, happy, thoughtful and honoured to have spent time on Jovane.

Postscript: The Jovane “Family of Faith” started about 10 weeks ago and is visited weekly by Ussein, often accompanied by other leaders from Inguri. The island has no school or water, but they have discovered something which is obviously very precious to them.

Here are some latest photos taken at the Machamba taken last Monday when we visited with Ian and Liz Linton. We expect to begin harvesting around the end of May. Some of the crop had to be re-planted as the seeds did not germinate due to lack of rain. As a consequence this crop will not produce a maximum yield, but it’s a good start.

The team now have a series of questions to respond to, which I have written in Portuguese and given to Inacio (one of the leaders). These are all around the next stage and ensuring funds from sales are set aside to purchase seeds and other stuff for the next season. The next season will start in September with clearing the ground ready for planting in early November.

The picture of two girls carrying baskets of maize on their heads show how our harvest will be transported, but these folks are from a nearby plot which was planted earlier. The rice field is about 30 mins walk from the main Machamba and is located along the river. An area has been planted by people from Tamoli (one of the Koti coastal communities).

Machamba beans

Machamba houses

Machamba harvest

Machamba abobora

Machamba rice field

Here are some photos of the Mwani team taken one morning after a prayer time with the other leaders. Also a picture of Magia.

Mwani team

Leaders

Magia

Ian and Liz Linton are both recently retired and live in Maidenhead, Berkshire. Liz worked for 20 years as a teacher of physical and religious education. Ian worked for National Air Traffic Services (NATS) for over 40 years; now he leads the team which serves the Maidenhead congregation of River Church and is also a local magistrate chairing the Adult Criminal Court.

Liz has recently completed a “Teaching English as a Foreign Language” (TEFL) course in London. She regularly helps out at Re:Charge which provides a drop-in cafe facility for single mothers. They have 5 “grown-up” children living in Australia, the Midlands, Cornwall, Manchester and Maidenhead.

Ian and Liz sitting on a fishing boat at Pria Nova next to the India Ocean. This is 7km away from where we live.

Julian interviewed Ian and Liz during their visit to Angoche in April…….

Julian: Ian, why did you decide to come to Mozambique?
Ian: I suppose it was for three reasons – firstly because we are your friends. Secondly, because we have a heart for overseas mission, having previously visited India in the 1970’s, and subsequently Thailand, Lesotho and now Mozambique. We have also helped to provide financial support for a young girl in the Philippines for the last 12 years via an organisation called CompassionUK. Thirdly, we heard the incredible story of God working amongst the Koti people and wanted to see it for ourselves.

Julian: What were your first impressions of Angoche?
Ian: Primarily the incongruity between the poverty of the current population against the residue of a Portuguese colonial town which was clearly once quite affluent. I found it amazing that the Koti did not have a written language prior to 2000 and that so many were suffering from hunger, cholera and malaria. Angoche is quite a large post-colonial town (similar in size to Marlow) which has fallen into decay and now provides a home to so many who battle for an existence.

I found a friendly and responsive people who will always greet you with a “Bom dia!” rather than the preoccupied stress of London life.

Not being able to speak the language has been a distinct disadvantage. The needs are always evident and the dilemma is what response should we give?

Julian: What have you learnt whilst you have been in Angoche?
Ian: During my first few days here Julian gave me a book titled “Muslims, Magic and the Kingdom of God” written by Rick Love. This has made a big impact upon my understanding of this culture. Whilst the business of church here is quire prescriptive, which is very different to what I am used to, I have noticed that there are clear strategies and priorities which are reflected in the meetings. When people meet, time is always made for praying for the sick and for those who haven’t yet received the gospel. In addition I note that they will shortly be sending out a team to work amongst the Mwani people of Northern Mozambique, who are also a coastal people group. For cultural reasons some of my normal Christian terminology is not appropriate so what I might call “churches” are called “Families of Faith” and the name for the work is “The True Way” rather than “……….Church”. There does seem to be more of a simple and direct approach to Christian living, so maybe in the “sophisticated” West we over-complicate things?

Julian: What sort of things have you been doing?
Ian: I enjoyed having the opportunity to bring words of encouragement to others and seeing Julian building upon my contributions. Helping produce workshop materials based upon the book of Luke has been challenging for me. I find “The Message” a very accessible version of the bible as it is written in a modern idiom. If I was able to use a Koti version with metaphors appropriate to this culture that would be brilliant!

Julian: What would you want to say to someone who hasn’t been to Angoche?
Ian: For those reading this interview, please tick the right answers…
a) Buy lots of mosquito repellent
b) Don’t come
c) Make sure you have a good camera – it’s beautiful
d) Learn some Portuguese
e) Come and see it for yourself. Prepare for your perspectives on life to be changed!

Annie and Liz

Julian: Liz, Why did you come to Angoche?
Liz: Because we are your friends and wanted to see you, to see what you are doing and in some small way help and support so you feel cared for, and not alone.

Julian: What have you enjoyed doing the most?
Liz: Teaching English! It’s a good tool to build relationships and get to know people. I am not an up-front speaker but I do enjoy talking to small groups. The students here who want to learn English are great guys and we have had fun together.

Julian: During your career you taught ethics. What are the ethical challenges that have impacted you here in Angoche?
Liz: The most obvious ethical challenge here is poverty. “Who do you give to and how much do you give?” I’m not sure this is an ethical problem as much as hearing from God who prompts you who to give to. But the bottom line must be “I was hungry and you gave me food!”

Julian: Do you think the trip will shape what you do next in your retirement?
Liz: I hope our trip to Angoche will be one of many such trips where we are able to go, see and encourage. I’m sure I didn’t put myself through four weeks of intensive English learning just to use it in Angoche. So I will wait with interest to see what other opportunities open up.

Another journey begins with an early morning walk down to the embarkation beach in Angoche. Boat owners ply their trade from this particular point, acting as ferries to the islands taking all manner of goods and also a wide variety of passengers. On the “dock” a few vendors will sell you some bread for your journey or offer you a cup of hot dark liquid euphemistically described as coffee. Also available are an assortment of small fish and prawns, heaped in small piles on some sacking. A policeman wanders through the crowd, keeping a somewhat disinterested eye on proceedings and hopeful owners approach us asking where we want to go.

Our boat has been pre-arranged by Xavier, an unusually tall Koti man of about 25 years who often wears a Muslim hat on top of a wide grin. For him Portuguese is a second language and when I try to communicate often a look of bewilderment and hopelessness crosses his face as he furtively searches for others who may be able to comprehend my mutterings. The arrangement was to depart at 6.30am but at 7.00am Xavier briefly appears and announces he needs to go and fetch something quickly before we can leave. Our captain hovers around, bringing his boat closer in and comes in search of his passengers. Our group swells and is joined by a large cake with white and blue icing, protected with an embroidered tablecloth.

Whilst waiting for the return of Xavier we are kept amused by the jostling of boats and passengers and an incident which evokes a chorus of shouts from the assembled crowd. One of the larger boats appears almost ready to depart, trying to obtain a few final passengers. The large triangular shaped sail made from many pieces of tired cloth sourced from a range of fabrics has been unfurled and the boat jockeys in the slight winds. Unfortunately one of the smaller adjacent boats has not unfurled its sail and the main spa makes a hole right through the adjoining boat’s sail. This generates a lot of shouted advice and gesticulation which quickly results in a small hole becoming a very large tear. Eventually the two boats are disengaged from each other and the sail is dropped so repairs can be effected. The owner goes to work with needle and thread whilst the passengers remain in the boat and after about 30 minutes they are ready to depart.

..

Meanwhile Xavier has returned with what looks like a few saucepans so we are able to climb a short ladder in to the boat. The cake is carefully positioned on the lap of one of the young ladies and we slowly make our way out towards Nyaluki. The winds are slight so a long pole is used for punting and an oar is roped to a peg for some purchase, with Xavier having to stand in order to get the blade entering the water. At one point we run aground on a sand bar but manage to work our way off. Eventually we land on the island where a small stream emerges from between some mango trees. So our party disembarks and paddles up this rather dirty black stream clutching skirts, cake, saucepans and flip-flops. After a 5 minute waddle we cut through between the coconut palms and arrive in the village at about 10.00am. 

In between a small group of huts a temporary shelter made from timber and palm leaves has been erected. This comprises about 17 poles supporting a framework carrying a mixture of roofing materials which includes palm leaves, a large bright green tarpaulin and a floor mat. We are seated on a similar selection of materials and patiently wait for proceeding to commence. By this time I wonder if the reader has established that the event we are attending is a wedding of 8 couples of various ages from 23 years up to something over 40 (too rude to ask for precise numbers). All the brides are attired in bright fabrics called capalanas whilst the grooms are trying to look suitably cool in more western attire such as jeans, football shirts and even a pair of white corduroy trousers accompanied by black suede shoes. It’s decided that those to be betrothed will form a small procession so they assemble a few metres away and accompanied by singing do the African version of American line dancing and move under the “pergola”. They are seated at the front of the assembly on a range of timber benches and white plastic chairs which seem to be almost as ubiquitous around the world as coca-cola. The cake is given pride of place in front of the prospective partners still covered with the table cloth which is now taking on a blue hue as the colour from the icing perspires into the covering, after all it is now about 11.30 and the temperature is in the high twenties.

From my experience of previous African weddings I am concerned that we could be here an extremely long time. A succession of speakers addresses the couples and the crowd and the master of ceremonies comes over and asks if I will “bring a word of encouragement”. Is this to say to the men “don’t worry, it’s not a life sentence” or to the ladies “don’t worry, you’ll also look wrinkled when you get old”? But no ……on a more serious note it is an opportunity for me to try and communicate what God wants to say to these folk as they make their public commitments to each other. A number of them have been partners for awhile, but have come to a place where they want to dedicate themselves uniquely to each other, and in front of God, an extremely counter-cultural view of such relationships in this society.

 So each little ceremony starts with each couple and two friends weaving their hands together to hold a bible in front of them whilst they make their vows to each other and receive prayer. The cake is then cut and the groom feeds his new wife with a mouthful of cake, and to shrieks of joy and laughter wipes her mouth and face clean with a small cloth. This favour is then reciprocated and to more loud shrieks they give each other a kiss and then stand in front of everyone with lovely grins on their faces whilst people come forward and throw money on a capalana which has been laid at their feet. This is all supplemented with lots of singing, smiles and laughter. The 8 mini services go quite quickly so at about 2.30pm the new couples and honoured guests are invited into a nearby shack. We all sit on the floor with our backs against the walls made from a lattice of sticks. This allows some breeze to filter through and the grass roof keeps off the sun, so it’s really quite pleasant inside. One of the men starts opening some fresh coconuts so we each have a refreshing drink of what I would describe as a clear isotonic pick-me-up and then attack the white flesh with available implements (I use my pen-knife). Lunch is served from aluminium saucepans, accompanied by many large washing-up bowls full to overflowing with rice on to plastic or enamel plates and most of us are given a dessert spoon, otherwise it means using your hands to scoop up the rice and a bean, onion, potato and chicken sauce (ingredients listed in order of quantity). We finish off our coconuts with the dessert spoons, and are then all given a piece of the wedding cake which tastes really good. Finally we assemble outside for a group photo and then make out way back towards the stream.

The tide has now come in so the stream has been consumed by the sea. Numerous mangroves project through the seawater and our 7m long boat has returned and been punted into the shallows so that again with the help of a small ladder we can make our way on board. We punt and paddle our way back to open water, but before the mainsail can be unfurled it gets caught in one of the afore mentioned mangroves. We can hear tearing fabric and note that what can be seen of the sail resembles a colander. Our captain seeks to extricate us from the tree which has now entangled the sail and some of the associated sheets (nautical term for rope just to keep land-lubbers confused). He shins himself out on the bow sprit (pointy bit of stick at the front) and nearly manages to fall in, but by breaking off a few branches frees us from the clutches of the somewhat innocuous and unhealthy looking tree. Our return journey as usual is much faster with wind and tide in our favour so we land back in Angoche at about 5.00pm, and make our way home via the bread shop picking up some white rolls for our tea.

It’s been another very African day, and what a privilege to be a part of these people’s lives with a chance on this occasion to share in their joy. As we sail back towards Angoche I realise again what a beautiful place this is and that I need to take time again to soak in the wonder of our time in this remote location. I reflect that just a few islands north of us people pay $500 per night to stay in an exclusive boutique hotel, but probably will never get the opportunity to become friends with these lovely Koti people.

It’s all been quite serious recently so here’s a couple of “wildlife” photos.

Spider on a wire

Spider on a wire was taken this morning outside a neighbour’s house. He is a teacher at a local school and gets to watch satellite TV (but possibly accompanied by the spider). I think I’d forgo the sat TV! On second thoughts is the sat dish really a secret spider death ray which is being trained on the victim?

Dangerous ducks are waddling near the central market. Not a safe place for them as someone is liable to pick one up and have it for dinner. But looking at what they were drinking, maybe it’s also dangerous for the consumer?

Dangerous ducks

500 bags of maize meal arrived last night and were off-loaded at a warehouse near the port this morning. We are using this as a storage and distribution point as it’s close to the boats going out to the islands and has got good vehicular access.

The photos show:

• The 500 bags
• Nissan pick-up loaded with 1 tonne of maize meal, ready to leave for Tamoli and Praia Nova.
• Tamoli children standing in front of the food we have delivered for their families

The Koti people send their heartfelt thanks for the gifts of food. One 25kg bag will last a typical family for 2 weeks and so far we’ve managed to buy 700 bags.  We are working on long term development solutions like the machamba, but in the short term this relief funding makes the difference between life and death for so many people.

I’ve just returned from driving the pick-up out to Tamoli and Praia Nova to small communities set amidst the ash white sand – it’s like driving in snow so it’s good fun, especially when you are carrying gifts which are like teardrops from heaven.

500 bags of maize meal

1 tonne of maize meal, ready to leave for Tamoli and Praia Nova

Children standing by the food we've delivered

from top l-r: Carlitos, Salimo, Domingo, Jose and Kabila

Here’s a photo of some of the students we work with on Tues and Thurs afternoons, trying to teach them English.

Carlitos, Salimo, Domingo
Jose and Kabila

We have lots of fun together, and in this picture they are trying to look cool!

Quelelene children

Serving the Koti people can be seen as a unique opportunity to catch the breath of God and comprehend in a fresh way the mysteries of our world and the times we live in. At this week’s training session I spoke about the need to listen, to retain and persevere with the words that God has spoken to us. This was taken from the very familiar Parable of the Sower. We endeavour to show our friends how to understand things for themselves and find answers to their own questions. This seems to be more strategic than simply presenting answers to questions which they will struggle to remember. I used the classic analogy of “it’s better to teach a man to fish rather than give him fish”, which seemed particularly pertinent amongst a room full of fishermen. So we attempt to show them how to unpack the bible, firstly for their own benefit but also for the 90 families of faith scattered across the Angoche district.

This is a new day for me and it’s also a new day for them. So we learn from each other, sometimes with smiles, occasionally with bemusement and often with tears which can be laughter and sometimes sadness.

I started to read Daniel this morning (for myself) and found it immediately evocative of the circumstances here in Angoche. Daniel was taken to the royal court and was requested to eat from the heavily laden table of the King, but he and his close friends chose to stand apart and just ate vegetables. After ten days they looked healthier than the others. In due course the King also discovered they were ten times wiser than all the magicians and enchanters in his whole kingdom, and gave them positions of authority and responsibility and then …. read the rest of the story for yourself, it’s really interesting!

A lorry load of food

Food for thought…… Angoche suffers from an annual food supply predicament around this time of year, made so much more acute in 2009 due to the cyclone last February which destroyed so much of the crops. A spark was lit last week by a new friend who works as a linguist who asked if we could help with famine relief and made available some money to buy food. We were able to widen the net and asked those on our mailing list to respond. The immediate reaction has been humbling so we write this with gratitude that defies description, even for this ad hoc English teacher! It’s not just the money that has been promised that has touched us deeply (an amazing £10,000 in total from across the world) but also our knowledge of the circumstances of many of the donors. The messages of comfort and encouragement attached to the gifts, like labels on Christmas presents placed under the tree have been wonderful. Food distribution starts on Friday 6th March just one week on from our first email requesting help.

On the way to the machamba in Namaponda - workers and food

Our prayer is that the simple food we are able to provide will make the people stronger than can be expected (like Daniel and his friends) and that the wisdom of the Koti people we work with will find an ear, not only here but out across the world. Getting the food down to Angoche has presented logistical problems but with perseverance we can get supplies through to this deeply troubled community. The ravage of hunger and acute sickness has spread tension and rumours where communication is so often based upon word of mouth, which is frequently at best misleading. Police have been despatched to one town nearby to try and keep a lid on things with limited success.

We sense a great need for kindness married to wisdom.

Our thanks go to those of you who are walking this Koti Journey with us. We know that many of you may not have the opportunity to come to Angoche but in some way you have connected with this story.   Like us, we think being a part of this journey will mess you up for the better….if you know what we mean?

Here are some first photos of the distribution of food. This lorry went this morning but was going to have a longer than normal journey as one of the bridges on the main road was washed away recently. The workers sitting on top of the food will travel about 2 hours to the machamba and then stay there for about 2 weeks, clearing the ground of weeds and unwanted growth around the newly planted crops. Other sacks of food went out on a boat to Quelelene early this morning. The children pictured live on the island about 2 hours boat ride from Angoche.”